2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
| 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships | |
|---|---|
| File:IFSC Climbing World Championship 2019 Hachioji logo.png Official event logo | |
| Venue | Esforta Arena in Hachioji |
| Location | Japan Hachioji, Japan |
| Date | 11–21 August 2019 |
| Competitors | 253 athletes from 39 nations |
| Website | https://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/ |
The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]
Medal summary
[edit | edit source]Medalists
[edit | edit source]
Medal table
[edit | edit source]* Host nation (Japan)
| Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | File:Flag of Slovenia.svg Slovenia | 3 | 1 | 0 | 4 |
| 2 | File:Flag of Japan.svg Japan* | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
| 3 | File:Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Czech Republic | 1 | 1 | 0 | 2 |
| 4 | File:Flag of Italy.svg Italy | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
| File:Flag of Poland.svg Poland | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 | |
| 6 | File:Flag of Austria.svg Austria | 0 | 2 | 1 | 3 |
| 7 | File:Flag of Germany.svg Germany | 0 | 1 | 1 | 2 |
| 8 | File:Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg China | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
| 9 | File:Flag of the United Kingdom.svg Great Britain | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
| 10 | File:Flag of France.svg France | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
| File:Flag of Kazakhstan.svg Kazakhstan | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 | |
 Russia | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 | |
| Totals (12 entries) | 8 | 8 | 8 | 24 | |
Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics
[edit | edit source]The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]
The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:
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* File:Flag of Japan.svg Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.
Schedule
[edit | edit source]All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) [6]
| Q | Qualifications | SF | Semi-finals | F | Finals |
| B | Bouldering | L | Lead | S | Speed | C | Combined |
| August 2019 | 11th Sun |
12th Mon |
13th Tue |
14th Wed |
15th Thu |
16th Fri |
17th Sat |
18th Sun |
19th Mon |
20th Tue |
21st Wed | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Men | B | B | B | L | L | L | Rest day | S | S | C | C | |||
| Women | B | C | C | |||||||||||
Bouldering
[edit | edit source]Women
[edit | edit source]| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[7] |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Slovenia Janja Garnbret | 5t5z 5 5 | 3t4z 7 6 | 3T3z 8 8 |
| 2 | Japan Akiyo Noguchi | 5t5z 9 9 | 2t4z 3 8 | 2T2z 4 2 |
| 3 | United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey | 3t5z 6 9 | 0t3z 0 6 | 2T2z 6 6 |
| 4 | Ukraine Ievgeniia Kazbekova | 4t5z 14 14 | 1t2z 2 3 | 1T2z 3 4 |
| 5 | Japan Miho Nonaka | 3t4z 4 8 | 0t3z 0 5 | 1T2z 5 6 |
| 6 | Japan Nanako Kura | 5t5z 12 10 | 1t2z 1 5 | 0T1z 0 1 |
Men
[edit | edit source]| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[8] |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Japan Tomoa Narasaki | 4t4z 8 5 | 2t4z 2 4 | 2T4z 12 20 |
| 2 | Austria Jakob Schubert | 3t4z 5 6 | 1t4z 3 12 | 0T3z 0 10 |
| 3 | Germany Yannick Flohé | 3t5z 5 14 | 2t4z 13 16 | 0T3z 0 13 |
| 4 | Japan Kokoro Fujii | 4t4z 5 5 | 2t4z 5 6 | 0T3z 0 18 |
| 5 | Japan Keita Dohi | 3t5z 6 8 | 2t4z 5 10 | 0T2z 0 9 |
| 6 | Czech Republic Adam Ondra | 5t5z 6 6 | 3t4z 11 7 | 0T0z 0 0 |
Lead
[edit | edit source]Women
[edit | edit source]| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[9] | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 1 | Slovenia Janja Garnbret | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 1.22 | 38+ | 43+ |
| 2 | Slovenia Mia Krampl | 35+ | 6 | 32 | 7 | 7.35 | 34 | 39+ |
| 3 | Japan Ai Mori | 39+ | 2 | TOP | 1 | 1.73 | 34+ | 38+ |
| 4 | South Korea Seo Chae-hyun | 34 | 8 | 38 | 4 | 5.66 | 32 | 38+ |
| 5 | Japan Akiyo Noguchi | 34+ | 7 | 33+ | 6 | 6.48 | 32 | 38+ |
| 6 | Austria Jessica Pilz | 37+ | 3 | 31+ | 12 | 8.26 | 30+ | 35+ |
| 7 | Slovenia Vita Lukan | 28 | 21 | 31+ | 12 | 21.18 | 35 | 30+ |
| 8 | France Julia Chanourdie | 31+ | 10 | 31+ | 12 | 14.97 | 30+ | 30+ |
Men
[edit | edit source]| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[10] | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 1 | Czech Republic Adam Ondra | TOP | 1 | 31 | 22 | 9.07 | 37+ | 34+ |
| 2 | Germany Alex Megos | TOP | 1 | 32+ | 7 | 6.06 | 40+ | 33+ |
| 3 | Austria Jakob Schubert | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.50 | 30+ | 33+ |
| 4 | Japan Tomoa Narasaki | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.50 | 38 | 30 |
| 5 | Canada Sean McColl | 31+ | 9 | TOP | 1 | 5.61 | 37+ | 30 |
| 6 | Italy Stefano Ghisolfi | 28+ | 18 | TOP | 1 | 8.05 | 29+ | 29+ |
| 7 | Japan Kai Harada | 32+ | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.29 | 31+ | 28+ |
| 8 | Sweden Hannes Puman | 29+ | 11 | 32+ | 7 | 11.68 | 29+ | 27+ |
Speed
[edit | edit source]Women
[edit | edit source]Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[11]
Men
[edit | edit source]Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[12]
- WC – Wildcard
- FS – False start
Combined
[edit | edit source]Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.[6]
In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[13]
Women
[edit | edit source]| Rank | Name | Points | Speed | Bouldering | Lead | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Time | Rank | Score | Rank | Holds | |||
| 1 | Slovenia Janja Garnbret | 12.00 | 6 | 13.399 | 2 | 1T2z 1 2 | 1 | Top |
| 2 | Japan Akiyo Noguchi | 21.00 | 7 | 10.082 | 1 | 2T2z 3 3 | 3 | 40+ |
| 3 | United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey | 42.00 | 2 | 9.225 | 3 | 1T2z 2 3 | 7 | 20 |
| 4 | Poland Aleksandra Mirosław | 64.00 | 1 | 7.750 | 8 | 0T0z 0 0 | 8 | 10 |
| 5 | Japan Miho Nonaka | 80.00 | 4 | 12.356 | 4 | 1T2z 3 4 | 5 | 23+ |
| 6 | Japan Ai Mori | 80.00 | 8 | 12.860 | 5 | 1T2z 3 7 | 2 | Top |
| 7 | Japan Futaba Ito | 120.00 | 5 | 8.655 | 6 | 0T2z 0 2 | 4 | 27 |
| 8 | Switzerland Petra Klingler | 126.00 | 3 | 8.901 | 7 | 0T2z 0 3 | 6 | 23+ |
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Men
[edit | edit source]| Rank | Name | Points | Speed | Bouldering | Lead | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Time | Rank | Score | Rank | Holds | |||
| 1 | Japan Tomoa Narasaki | 4.00 | 2 | fall | 1 | 3T3z 4 3 | 2 | 30 |
| 2 | Austria Jakob Schubert | 35.00 | 7 | 7.208 | 5 | 0T3z 0 6 | 1 | Top |
| 3 | Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin | 40.00 | 1 | 5.915 | 8 | 0T1z 0 2 | 5 | 22 |
| 4 | Japan Kai Harada | 54.00 | 3 | 6.348 | 6 | 0T2z 0 6 | 3 | 30 |
| 5 | Japan Meichi Narasaki | 60.00 | 5 | 6.689 | 2 | 1T3z 1 4 | 6 | 21 |
| 6 | Japan Kokoro Fujii | 72.00 | 6 | 9.438 | 3 | 1T3z 2 6 | 4 | 29+ |
| 7 | France Mickaël Mawem | 112.00 | 4 | 6.716 | 4 | 1T2z 3 4 | 7 | 20 |
| 8 | Germany Alexander Megos | 448.00 | 8 | 7.570 | 7 | 0T1z 0 1 | 8 | 0 |
See also
[edit | edit source]References
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External links
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