Alexander Megos

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(Redirected from Alex Megos)
Jump to navigation Jump to search

Alexander Megos
File:2022-08-12 European Championships 2022 – Sport Climbing Men's Lead by Sandro Halank–056.jpg
Megos at the 2022 European Championships
Personal information
NationalityGerman
Born (1993-08-12) 12 August 1993 (age 32)
Erlangen, Germany
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height170 cm (5 ft 7 in)[1]
Weight57 kg (126 lb)[1]
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
First ascents
  • Fight Club (9b, 2016)
  • Perfecto Mundo (9b+, 2018)
  • Bibliographie (9b+, 2020)
  • Ratstaman Vibrations (9b, 2022)
  • The Full Journey (9b, 2022)
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Germany
World Championships
Silver medal – second place 2019 Hachiōji Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2018 Innsbruck Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2023 Bern Lead
World Cup
Gold medal – first place Briancon 2018 Lead
Silver medal – second place Innsbruck 2024 Lead
Silver medal – second place Innsbruck 2023 Lead
Silver medal – second place Villars 2021 Lead
Silver medal – second place Chamonix 2019 Lead
Silver medal – second place Kranj 2017 Lead
Bronze medal – third place Villars 2023 Lead
Bronze medal – third place Briancon 2022 Lead
Bronze medal – third place Villars 2019 Lead
Bronze medal – third place Chamonix 2018 Lead
Updated on 27 June 2024

Alexander "Alex" Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including three 9b+ (5.15c) routes (Perfecto Mundo, Bibliographie, and Change), eight 9b (5.15b) routes (including Fight Club, Ratstaman Vibrations, Move and The Full Journey), and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.

Early life

[edit | edit source]

Alexander Megos was born in 12 August 1993 in Erlangen, Germany. His family is partly of Greek descent.[2] Megos speaks rudimentary Greek and often visits Greece.[2]

Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. In 2006, Megos began training in the mountainous region of his native Bavaria, known as Franconian Switzerland, and later at the German Alpine Club's national climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg.[3] There, he was mentored by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who continue to train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007, Megos completed his first 8a (5.13b). Two years later, in 2009, he climbed his first 8c (5.14b) by completing Drive-by Shooting, and, in 2011, his first 9a (5.14d) by ascending San Ku Kai.

Climbing career

[edit | edit source]

Competition climbing

[edit | edit source]

Megos started competition climbing in 2006. He won two youth European Championship titles (2009 and 2010) and was the runner-up in the youth World Champion in 2011.[4] In 2009, he won every single competition in the EYC series.[5] In 2017, he was the runner-up in bouldering at the European Championship and won his first World Cup in the lead climbing discipline in Briançon, France, on 21 July 2018.[6]

In 2017, he won the silver medal for bouldering at both the European Championships in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. In 2018, he won a bronze medal in the lead climbing discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France,[7] and, one week later, won the gold medal at the Briancon World Cup.[8] Later in that year, he took the bronze medal at the World Championships in the lead competition.[9] He followed this up with a silver in lead at the 2019 World Championships. By reaching the finals of the combined event at the World Championships, he secured a qualifying spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics.[10]

Megos has also climbed in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, where he has placed second and third on numerous occasions, celebrating in a win in 2018.[11] He currently holds the high point of Black Diamond's The Project, which is widely considered one of the world's hardest indoor routes.

Sport climbing

[edit | edit source]

On 24 March 2013, Megos ascended Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain, completing the world's first 9a onsight. In August 2013, Megos climbed The Red Project 9a (35), Australia's first 9a, and Wheelchair (9a+).[12] Due to the boulder's uncommonly long length, Megos assigned the Wheelchair a sport grading.[13]

Alexander Megos is known for speedily ascending difficult climbing routes. From mid-April to mid-June 2014, he completed nine routes, ranging from 9a+ (5.15a) to 8c+ (5.14c), in Franconian Switzerland, including Modified 9a+ (5.15a), one of the most challenging routes in the region. He also managed a redpoint attempt of the famous Action Directe within two hours, setting a record time.[14] In addition, he is the only person to complete an asccent of Biography also known as Realization 9a+ (5.15a) in Ceüse, France in a single day of effort.[15]

In June 2014, Alexander Megos, together with Roger Schäli, completed the first ascent of the 20-pitch route Fly 8c (5.14b) in Staldeflue, Switzerland, one of the most difficult big-wall climbing routes in the world.[16]

In April 2015, Megos returned to Australia, completing the first ascent of SchweinebaumeIn 9a (35). On 1 October 2015, he climbed the route Supernova in Franconian Switzerland and, by doing so, likely established the first route of grade 11+ (UIAA) (9a + / 9b French) in German-speaking countries.[17]

Megos' ascent of First Round First Minute in December 2015 marked the completion of his first 9b (5.15b).

On 9 May 2018, he secured the first ascent of the route Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Spain, a line bolted by Chris Sharma. Megos and Sharma had tried it together several times in the days before his ascent and graded it 9b+ (5.15c).

In August 2020, Megos completed his long-term project Bibliographie in Céüse, grading it 9c (5.15d), after working on it for 60 days.[18] However, in August 2021, after Stefano Ghisolfi had matched this feat, the route was downgraded to 9b+ (5.15c), which Megos agreed was more fitting.[19]

Same 2020 Megos established Pornographie, a new route between Bibliographie and L’Étrange Ivress. He graded it 9a (5.14d) without using knee-pads.

Bouldering

[edit | edit source]

In May 2020, Megos ascended Upgrade U 8C (V15), one of the most challenging bouldering problems in his native northern Bavaria.[20][21]

Notable ascents

[edit | edit source]

Redpointed routes

[edit | edit source]

9b+ (5.15c)

9b (5.15b)

  • First Round, First Minute (31 December 2015). Third Ascent. First Ascent by Chris Sharma.[26]
  • Fight Club (14 August 2016). First Ascent.[27] Route bolted by Sonnie Trotter.
  • Mejorando Imagen (25 April 2021). Second Ascent. First Ascent by Ramón Julián. Originally graded 9a, upgraded by Megos to 9b.[28]
  • King Capella (November 2021). Second Ascent (after 9 days of effort). First Ascent by Will Bosi.[29]
  • Ratstaman Vibrations (31 July 2022). First Ascent. Route bolted by Chris Sharma.[30]
  • The Full Journey (9 October 2022). First Ascent. Route bolted by Tom Bolger.[31]
  • Sleeping Lion (4 January 2024). Second Ascent (after 8 days of effort). First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Originally graded 9b+ by Sharma, downgraded by Megos to 9b.[32][33]
  • Move (3 September 2024). Third Ascent.[34] First Ascent by Adam Ondra. Graded 9b/+ by Megos.[35]
  • Tuareg Blanco (14 January 2025). First Ascent. Route bolted by Adrien Boulon.[36]

9a+/b (5.15a/b)

  • Chan Chan Bastards
  • Supernova - First Ascent.[26]
  • La Capella[37]

9a+ (5.15a)

  • Demencia Senil - First Ascent by Chris Sharma.[38]
  • La Rambla - Megos climbed it on his second try.[39]
  • Biographie - First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Megos climbed it in one day, on his third try.[40]
  • Corona - Third Ascent.[39]
  • Classified - First Ascent.[39]
  • Modified - First Ascent.[41]
  • First Ley - Megos also sent a variation called La Ley Indignata 9a (5.14d), possible first ascent.[26]
  • Thor's Hammer - First Repeat. First Ascent by Adam Ondra.[42]
  • Geocache - First Ascent. Repeated by Adam Ondra.[43]
  • Becoming - First Ascent.[44]
  • Super Crackinette - First Ascent.[45]
  • Jaws 2 - Sent on third try.[46]
  • Le Grand Saccage - First Ascent.[47]
  • Iron Curtain - Third Ascent.[48]
  • Kangaroo's Limb - First Ascent by Adam Ondra.[49]
  • Beginning - First Ascent by Stefano Ghisolfi.[50]

9a (5.14d)

  • Action Directe - Megos sent this route in just two hours. Action Directe was the world's first 9a, and continues to be a benchmark for the grade.[51]
  • La Sensación del Bloque - March 2017 - FA of the first South American 9a in Valle de los Condores, Chile.
  • Dreamcatcher - Fourth Ascent. Climbed in one day, other previous ascents by Chris Sharma, Sean McColl and Ben Harnden took multiple days.[52]
  • Era Vella - Second Try. Subject to much controversy about whether it is 9a(14d) or 8c+(14c).[53]
  • Speed Intégrale - Voralpsee, Switzerland in two days, 2017 [54]
  • Coup de grâce - Val Bavona, Switzerland second go, 2017 [55]
  • The Illusionist - Third Ascent. Climbed on the same day as Move (9b/+).[34][35]
  • Mr Big - Flash.[56]

Other notable ascents

  • Pure Imagination: 8c+ (5.14c). Flash.[57]
  • Fly: 8c (5.14b). Megos made the first free ascent of this twenty pitch big wall in Switzerland.[40]
  • Hubble: 8c+ (5.14c) - Megos became the first to climb both Action Directe and Hubble by sending Hubble in June 2016.[58]

Onsighted routes

[edit | edit source]

9a (5.14d)

  • Estado Critico - World's first 9a onsight.[57]
  • TCT[59]

8c+ (5.14c)

  • Victimes del Passat[38]

Boulder problems

[edit | edit source]

8C / 8C+ 

  • Wheelchair - First Ascent. Although Megos suggested a 9a+ sport climbing grade because of its length, this Wheel of Life variation is not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, harder than Wheel of Life, and possibly worth an 8C+ (V16) rating.[51][60]

8C (V15)

  • The Story of Two Worlds - First Ascended by Dave Graham in 2005, repeated by Megos in December 2020.[61]
  • Dreamtime - Ascended by Megos on 18 December 2020.[62]
  • Upgrade U - First Ascent May 2020, rated 8C and accepted as the hardest boulder problem in the Frankenjura.[63]
  • Half Life - Second ascent April 2020, Frankenjura, Megos confirmed as 8C
  • The Finnish Line - Summer 2017 - Second ascent of hard testpiece established by Nalle Hukkataival in Rocklands, South Africa. The grade is still controversial, but consensus seems to grow on 8C (V15).[64]
  • Wheel of Life: - First Ascent by Dai Koyamada. Megos suggested a sport climbing grade of 9a (5.14d), but this is not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, rated 8C.[60]
  • Lucid Dreaming - Third Ascent of Paul Robinson's boulder, originally graded 8C+ (V16).[26]

8B+ (V14)

  • Never Ending Story[40]
  • Bad Boys for Life - First Ascent.[40]
  • Montecore[65]
  • Riot Act[65]
  • Double Demerit - First Repeat.[66]
  • Sky[67]
  • Trainspotting - First Ascent.[68]

Rankings

[edit | edit source]

Climbing World Cup

[edit | edit source]
Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022 2023 2024
Lead 55 37 35 - - - - - 22 6 7 10 14 2 22
Bouldering - - - 73 - - - - 28 55 19 9 22 33 -
Speed - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Combined - - - - - - - - 38

[69]

Climbing World Championships

[edit | edit source]
File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Megos 06.jpg
Megos in the 2018 World Championships lead finals

Youth[70]

Discipline 2009
Youth A 		2010
Youth A
Lead 8 2

Adult[70]

Discipline 2018 2019 2023
Lead 3 2 3
Bouldering 25 25 17
Speed 109 75 -
Combined 11 13

Climbing European Championships

[edit | edit source]
Discipline 2010 2017
Lead 23 -
Bouldering - 2
Speed - -

[70]

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

[edit | edit source]

Lead

[edit | edit source]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2017 1 1
2018 1 1 2
2019 1 1 2
2021 1 1
2022 1 1
2023 1 1 2
2024 1 1
Total 1 5 4 10

[70]

Personal life

[edit | edit source]

Megos has been vegan since the beginning of 2021.[71]

Megos and his family have provided housing, via their properties in Erlangen, to Ukrainian refugees, saying the refugees are "friends and family". He said that athletes feel too far from the Ukrainian War to believe they can be of any help, and wishes that they would use their platform to help people.[72]

See also

[edit | edit source]

References

[edit | edit source]
  1. ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  2. ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  3. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  4. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  5. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  6. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  7. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  8. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  9. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  10. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  11. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  12. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  13. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  14. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  15. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  16. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  17. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  18. ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  19. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  20. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  21. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  22. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  23. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  24. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  25. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  26. ^ a b c d Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  27. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  28. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  29. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  30. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  31. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  32. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  33. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  34. ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  35. ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  36. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  37. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  38. ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  39. ^ a b c Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  40. ^ a b c d Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  41. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  42. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  43. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  44. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  45. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  46. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  47. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  48. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  49. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  50. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  51. ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  52. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  53. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  54. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  55. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  56. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  57. ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  58. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  59. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  60. ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  61. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  62. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  63. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  64. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  65. ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  66. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  67. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  68. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  69. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  70. ^ a b c d Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  71. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
  72. ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
[edit | edit source]
Error creating thumbnail: File missing
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Alexander Megos.
  • Alexander Megos at Olympics.comLua error in Module:EditAtWikidata at line 29: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).Lua error in Module:WikidataCheck at line 29: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).
  • Alexander Megos at Team Deutschland (in German)Lua error in Module:EditAtWikidata at line 29: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).Lua error in Module:WikidataCheck at line 29: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).
  • Alexander Megos at OlympediaLua error in Module:EditAtWikidata at line 29: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).Lua error in Module:WikidataCheck at line 29: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).

Lua error in mw.title.lua at line 392: bad argument #2 to 'title.new' (unrecognized namespace name 'Portal'). Lua error in Module:Authority_control at line 153: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).

Retrieved from "http://70.231.62.181/index.php?title=Alexander_Megos&oldid=2643075"