Oriane Bertone

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Oriane Bertone
File:Oriane Bertone.jpg
Oriane Bertone, Giravuelta
Personal information
NationalityFrench
Born (2005-03-10) March 10, 2005 (age 21)
Réunion, Overseas France
Height167 cm (5 ft 6 in)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forYoungest person to solve a V14 (8B+) boulder problem
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing File:Flag of France.svg France
World Championships
Silver medal – second place 2023 Bern Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2025 Seoul Bouldering
World Cup
Gold medal – first place Prague 2025 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place Prague 2023 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Innsbruck 2025 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Curitiba 2025 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Keqiao 2025 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Salt Lake City 2024 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Salt Lake City 2023 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Seoul 2023 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Seoul 2022 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Salt Lake City 2021 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Meiringen 2021 Bouldering
European Championships
Bronze medal – third place 2022 Munich Bouldering

Oriane Bertone (born March 10, 2005) is a French rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, but is also noted for her sport climbing and her bouldering.

Climbing career

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Rock climbing

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In 2018, when she was 12 years old, Bertone became the youngest climber to send a V14 (8B+) graded boulder problem when she solved Golden Shadow in Rocklands (South Africa).[1] In 2020, aged 14, she redpointed the sport climbing route, Panonoramix et les cyclopes, in Saint Léger at grade 8c+ (5.14c).

Competition climbing

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In 2019, she started competing in international youth competition climbing events, where she won multiple gold medals in both competition lead climbing and competition bouldering.

In 2021, Bertone made her IFSC Climbing World Cup debut at age 16 at the Boulder World Cup in Meiringen, where she advanced to the final and won a silver medal.[2]

In 2023, Bertone won her first IFSC Climbing World Cup gold medal at the Boulder World Cup in Prague, beating Janja Garnbret in doing so.[3] She went on to win a silver medal in bouldering at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships and secure a spot for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing first in the European Boulder and Lead Climbing Olympic Qualifier.[4][5]

In 2024, Bertone finished in eighth place in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[6]

Personal life

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Bertone was born in Nice in 2005, and grew up on the island of Réunion, a territory of France, to an Italian father and French mother.[7] [8]

Rankings

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Source:[9]

European Youth Championships

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Discipline 2019

Youth B

Boulder 1
Lead 1

Youth World Championships

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Discipline 2019

Youth B

Boulder 1
Lead 1

European Championships

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Discipline 2022
Boulder 3

IFSC Climbing World Cup Overall Ranking

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Discipline 2021 2022 2023 2024 2025
Boulder 3 6 4 10 1


IFSC World Cup

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Source:[10]

Podiums

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Season First Second Third Total
2021 2 2
2022 1 1
2023 1 2 3
2024 1 1
2025 1 3 4
Total 2 9 0 11

Notable ascents

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Boulder problems

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8C (V15):

  • Satan I Helvete - Bas, Fontainebleau (France) - 2020 [11]

8B+ (V14):

8B (V13):

  • Psychopad - Réunion - 2017[13]
  • Le Spartiate direct assis - Réunion - 2018[14]
  • Fragile Steps - RockLands (South Africa) - 2017[15]
  • Trafic - Fontainebleau - 2018
  • The master Key - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
  • Bio Affinity - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
  • Ray of light - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Leopard cave extended - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Agamemnon - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Fata I Helvete - Fontainebleau - 2020

Redpointed routes

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8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

References

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