2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup
OrganiserIFSC
Edition34th
Events
21
  • 6 Boulder
    7 Lead
    7 Speed
    1 Boulder & Lead Combined
Locations
12
Dates8 April – 22 October 2022
Lead
MenSlovenia Luka Potočar
WomenSlovenia Janja Garnbret
TeamJapan Japan
Boulder
MenJapan Yoshiyuki Ogata
WomenUnited States Natalia Grossman
TeamJapan Japan
Speed
MenIndonesia Veddriq Leonardo
WomenPoland Aleksandra Kałucka
TeamIndonesia Indonesia
← 2021
2023 →

The 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 34th edition of the international sport climbing competition series organised by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 12 locations. There are 21 events: six bouldering, seven lead, seven speed, and one bouldering & lead combined events. The series began on 8 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concluded on 22 October in Morioka-Iwate, Japan, which introduced the Boulder & Lead combined format that will be used at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.

The top 3 in each competition receive medals, and the overall winners are awarded trophies. At the end of the season, an overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Scheduling

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The IFSC announced the 2022 World Cup schedule in October 2021. The series was initially scheduled to open in Moscow instead of the traditional curtain-raiser in Meiringen, Switzerland, and repeats the back-to-back events held in Salt Lake City, introduced in the 2021 series[1] The IFSC followed up in December 2021 with an announcement of Koper, Slovenia as a first-time host city, a change from the traditional host city of Kranj, Slovenia which hosted a World Cup event 25 times between 1996 and 2021, as well as Wujiang as the last stop in the circuit.[2]

On 25 February 2022, the IFSC announced the suspension of the Boulder and Speed World Cup in Moscow scheduled for April, following the Russian invasion of Ukraine.[3] On 22 March 2022, the federation announced that the suspended Moscow Boulder World Cup event was rescheduled to take place in Brixen, Italy from 10 to 12 June 2022.[4]

On 24 March 2022, the IFSC announced that the World Cup originally scheduled to take place in Bali, Indonesia, would now take place in Jakarta.[5]

On 20 May 2022, the IFSC announced the cancellation of two World Cup events in China, Wujiang (Lead & Speed) from 30 September to 2 October and Chongqing (Lead & Boulder) from 6 to 9 October, citing concerns over the COVID-19 pandemic.[6]

Later in May, the federation announced that the Boulder World Cup event originally scheduled for Japan in May would be rescheduled as a Boulder & Lead World Cup in Morioka-Iwate, Japan from 20 to 22 October. This would be the first IFSC event to feature the Boulder & Lead combined format that will be used at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.[7]

In July, the IFSC announced a Lead & Speed World Cup to take place 9 to 11 September in Edinburgh, to replace the previously canceled Wujiang World Cup. Edinburgh had most recently hosted a World Cup in 2017.[8]

Overview

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No. Dates Location D G Gold Silver Bronze
1 8–10 April Switzerland Meiringen B M Japan Tomoa Narasaki 2T3Z 3 6 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T3Z 5 19 France Mejdi Schalck 2T3Z 7 9
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4Z 5 5 United States Natalia Grossman 3T4Z 8 16 Switzerland Andrea Kümin 1T2Z 1 3
2 6–8 May South Korea Seoul B M Japan Kokoro Fujii 4T4Z 11 4 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4T4Z 12 8 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 3T4Z 6 7
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 7 5 France Oriane Bertone 3T4Z 5 5 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T3Z 6 5
S M Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 6.965 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin false start Indonesia Rahmad Adi Mulyono 5.587
W Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 6.723 United States Emma Hunt 7.236 Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 7.249
3 20–22 May United States Salt Lake City B M France Mejdi Schalck 4T4Z 9 6 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 4T4Z 11 10 Japan Rei Kawamata 3T4Z 14 12
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 9 9 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T4Z 5 14 Japan Miho Nonaka 3T4Z 9 18
S M Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 5.643 United States Noah Bratschi fall Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 5.595
W Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 6.934 Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 7.838 Poland Natalia Kałucka 7.521
4 27–29 May United States Salt Lake City B M Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 4T4Z 5 5 Slovenia Anze Peharc 4T4Z 5 5 Japan Kokoro Fujii 4T4Z 9 8
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 10 4 Japan Miho Nonaka 3T4Z 5 5 United States Brooke Raboutou 3T4Z 6 4
S M Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 6.330 Austria Tobias Plangger fall Italy Ludovico Fossali 5.490
W Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 6.548 United States Emma Hunt fall Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 7.963
5 10–12 June Italy Brixen[Note 1] B M Germany Yannick Flohé 2T4Z 5 9 United Kingdom Maximillian Milne 2T3Z 6 9 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 1T4Z 4 9
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 6 5 Germany Hannah Meul 4T4Z 6 6 China Luo Zhilu 2T4Z 5 9
6 22–25 June Austria Innsbruck B M United States Colin Duffy 3T4Z 12 9 South Korea Lee Dohyun 2T4Z 10 12 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4Z 10 14
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4Z 5 5 Germany Hannah Meul 4T4Z 7 6 Japan Miho Nonaka 2T2Z 3 2
L M United States Colin Duffy 38+ Japan Ao Yurikusa 37+ United States Jesse Grupper 37+
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 39+ South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 27+ United States Brooke Raboutou 27+
7 30 June–2 July Switzerland Villars L M Japan Taisei Homma 36+ United States Jesse Grupper 34+ United States Colin Duffy 34
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP United States Brooke Raboutou 37+ United States Natalia Grossman 35+
S M China Long Jianguo 5.23 China Wu Peng 5.24 China Long Jinbao 5.16
W China Deng Lijuan 6.87 China Niu Di 8.22 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 7.06
8 8–10 July France Chamonix L M Czech Republic Adam Ondra 39+ Japan Taisei Homma 39+ United States Sean Bailey 29+
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP Italy Laura Rogora TOP South Korea Seo Chae-hyun TOP
S M China Long Jinbao 5.11 Spain Erik Noya Cardona 5.49 Indonesia Aspar Aspar 5.53
W China Deng Lijuan 6.55 Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 6.64 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 6.82
9 22–23 July France Briançon L M United States Jesse Grupper 37 Japan Taisei Homma 35+ Germany Alexander Megos 35+
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 42+ South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 41+ United States Natalia Grossman 41
10 2–3 September Slovenia Koper L M Slovenia Luka Potočar 30+ Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 30+ Germany Yannick Flohé 29+
W Japan Ai Mori 30+ Slovenia Janja Garnbret 27+ United States Brooke Raboutou 23+
11 9–11 September United Kingdom Edinburgh[Note 2] L M United States Jesse Grupper TOP Slovenia Luka Potočar 31+ United Kingdom Toby Roberts 30+
W Japan Ai Mori TOP Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 42+
S M United States Samuel Watson 5.97 China Long Jinbao 6.93 Spain Erik Noya Cardona wc
W Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 7.47 Poland Natalia Kałucka fall United States Emma Hunt 7.28
12 24–26 September Indonesia Jakarta[Note 3]
 L M Japan Ao Yurikusa 29 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 28 Germany Sebastian Halenke 28
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 40 Slovenia Mia Krampl 35+
S M Indonesia Aspar Aspar 5.39 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 5.75 China Cao Long 5.16
W China Deng Lijuan 6.66 Poland Natalia Kałucka 7.20 Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 6.81
13 20–22 October Japan Morioka-Iwate B&L M Japan Tomoa Narasaki 156.4 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 138.4 Japan Kokoro Fujii 132.6
W Japan Ai Mori 190.9 United States Natalia Grossman 171.2 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 131.8
OVERALL B M Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 3990 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3405 Japan Kokoro Fujii 3110
W United States Natalia Grossman 5000 Japan Miho Nonaka 3210 United States Brooke Raboutou 2940
L M Slovenia Luka Potočar 3860 Japan Taisei Homma 3835 United States Jesse Grupper 3812
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 5805 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 4405 United States Natalia Grossman 3370
S M Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 4455 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 4080 China Long Jinbao 3105
W Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 4680 United States Emma Hunt 3950 Poland Natalia Kałucka 3820
NATIONAL TEAMS B A Japan Japan 20783 United States United States 15223 France France 10175.5
L A Japan Japan 21355 Slovenia Slovenia 18273.66 United States United States 16598
S A Indonesia Indonesia 17135 Poland Poland 15347 China China 15203

[1]

  1. ^ Originally scheduled to be held in Moscow, Russia on 1–3 April.
  2. ^ Originally scheduled to be held in Wujiang from 30 September to 2 October.
  3. ^ Originally scheduled to be held in Bali.

Competition highlights

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In the speed competition at the Seoul World Cup on 6 May, Indonesia's Kiromal Katibin and Poland's Aleksandra Mirosław set the world record for their respective genders' at 5.17 seconds and 6.64 seconds, respectively.[9] Two weeks later, Katibin and Mirosław broke their own records in Salt Lake City, at 5.10 seconds and 6.53 seconds, respectively.[10] Katibin broke his own record twice on 30 June during the qualifying round at Villars, posting times of 5.09, and then 5.04 seconds.[11] He broke his record again on 8 July at Chamonix with a time of 5.009.[12]

File:Grossman 2022.jpg
Natalia Grossman at the Brixen World Cup in June 2022

Natalia Grossman of the United States repeated her women's bouldering overall series win with five straight gold medals, only missing the gold when she finished second to Janja Garnbret of Slovenia, who sat out most of the bouldering season.[13] Yoshiyuki Ogata of Japan also repeated as the overall bouldering series winner, and he was joined by fellow Japanese climbers Tomoa Narasaki with the silver and Kokoro Fujii with the bronze, completing a Japanese sweep of the bouldering series podium.[14]

At Innsbruck in June, Colin Duffy of the United States won both the bouldering and lead gold medals, becoming the first male athlete to win both disciplines in the same IFSC World Cup event.[15]

Bouldering

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The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2022:[16]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Brixen Innsbruck
1 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 3990 2. 805 3. 690 2. 805 1. 1000 5. (545) 3. 690
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3405 1. 1000 2. 805 7. 455 — 3. 690 7. 455
3 Japan Kokoro Fujii 3110 6. 495 1. 1000 14. (260) 3. 690 9. 380 5. 545
4 Germany Yannick Flohé 2475 — — 5. 545 7. 435 1. 1000 6. 495
5 France Mejdi Schalck 2294 3. 690 7. 455 1. 1000 21. 137.5 — 43. 11.5
6 United Kingdom Maximillian Milne 2215 8. 415 8. 415 13. 280 12. 300 2. 805 14. (260)
7 South Korea Lee Dohyun 2128.5 41. 13.5 10. 350 — 10. 350 4. 610 2. 805
8 United States Colin Duffy 1976 5. 545 — 21. 137.5 13. 280 41. 13.5 1. 1000
9 South Korea Chon Jong-won 1957.5 21. 112.5 12. 300 — 4. 610 11. 325 4. 610
10 Japan Rei Kawamata 1774.5 31. 39.5 — 3. 690 5. 545 14. 260 15. 240

Women

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2022:[16]

Rank Name Points Meiringen Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Brixen Innsbruck
1 United States Natalia Grossman 5000 2. (805) 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 3210 26. (68) 8. 415 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 3. 690
3 United States Brooke Raboutou 2940 12. 300 3. 690 2. 805 3. 690 — 7. 455
4 Japan Futaba Ito 2560 5. 545 15. (240) 9. 380 4. 610 8. 415 4. 610
5 Germany Hannah Meul 2345 7. 455 — 13. 280 — 2. 805 2. 805
6 France Oriane Bertone 2316.5 4. 610 2. 805 7. 455 8. 415 — 33. 31.5
7 Austria Jessica Pilz 2215 18. (185) 7. 455 4. 610 13. 280 7. 455 8. 415
8 Serbia Staša Gejo 2195 6. 495 4. 610 8. 415 11. 325 10. 350 16. (220)
9 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 1930 17. (205) 14. 260 5. 545 12. 300 13. 280 5. 545
10 Italy Camilla Moroni 1820 13. 280 5. 545 6. 495 17. (205) 16. 220 13. 280

* = Joint place with another athlete

Speed

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Main article: Speed climbing at the 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2022:[17]

Rank Name Points Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Villars Chamonix Edinburgh Jakarta
1 Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 4455 1. 1000 3. 690 1. 1000 4. 610 4. 610 — 5. 545
2 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 4080 2. 805 1. 1000 5. 545 5. 545 9. 380 — 2. 805
3 China Long Jinbao 3105 — — — 3. 690 1. 1000 2. 805 4. 610
4 Spain Erik Noya Cardona 2955 11. 325 9. 380 7. 455 13. (280) 2. 805 3. 690 12. 300
5 United States Samuel Watson 2725 16. 220 8. 415 8. 415 12. 220 58. (5) 1. 1000 7. 455
6 Italy Ludovico Fossali 2534 4. 610 4. 610 3. 690 12. 300 15. 240 31. (42) 26. 84
7 United States John Brosler 2460 38. (18) 5. 545 6. 495 7. 455 11. 325 7. 455 18. 185
8 China Long Jianguo 2380 — — — 1. 1000 7. 455 5. 545 9. 380
9 Indonesia Aspar Jaelolo 2245 10. 350 — — 17. 205 3. 690 — 1. 1000
10 France Guillaume Moro 2115 7. 455 11. 325 12. 300 8. 415 51. (7) 9. 380 15. 240

Women

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2022:[17]

Rank Name Points Seoul Salt Lake City I Salt Lake City II Villars Chamonix Edinburgh Jakarta
1 Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 4680 3. 690 2. 805 3. 690 9. (380) 2. 805 1. 1000 3. 690
2 United States Emma Hunt 3950 2. 805 4. 610 2. 805 6. 495 — 3. 690 5. 545
3 Poland Natalia Kałucka 3820 13. (280) 3. 690 4. 610 7. 455 7. 455 2. 805 2. 805
4 China Deng Lijuan 3380 — — — 1. 1000 1. 1000 9. 380 1. 1000
5 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 3000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 — — — —
6 China Niu Di 2385 — — — 2. 805 6. 495 6. 475* 4. 610
7 France Capucine Viglione 2365 6. 495 10. 350 7. 455 8. 415 10. 350 12. 300 15. (240)
8 Poland Patrycja Chudziak 2345 11. 325 6. 495 9. 380 12. 300 12. 300 5. 545 18. (185)
9 France Aurelia Sarisson 2210 14. 260 5. 545 32. (37) 10. 350 9. 380 11. 325 10. 350
10 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 2140 9. 380 — — 3. 690 3. 690 — 9. 380

* = Joint place with another athlete

Lead

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The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2022:[18]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Edinburgh Jakarta
1 Slovenia Luka Potočar 3860 4. 610 11. (325) 4. 610 9. 380 1. 1000 2. 805 7. 455
2 Japan Taisei Homma 3835 9. 380 1. 1000 2. 805 2. 805 6. 495 10. 350 12. (300)
3 United States Jesse Grupper 3812 3. 690 2. 805 35. (27) 1. 1000 32. 37 1. 1000 13. 280
4 Japan Ao Yurikusa 3239 2. 805 8. 415 28. (63) 26. 84 4. 610 11. 325 1. 1000
5 Germany Yannick Flohé 2910 7. 455 4. 610 5. 545 4. 610 3. 690 - -
6 United States Colin Duffy 2845 1. 1000 3. 690 20. 155 5. 545 - 7. 455 -
7 Japan Satone Yoshida 2660 6. 495 5. 545 9. 380 23. (120) 8. 415 13. 280 5. 545
8 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 2635 10. 350 19. (170) 8. 415 10. 350 2. 805 6. 495 16. 220
9 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2540 12. 300 6. 495 33. (33) 6. 495 7. 455 8. 415 9. 380
10 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 2295 31. (37.33)* 20. 155 17. 205 14. 260 11. 325 5. 545 2. 805

Women

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The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2022:[18]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Edinburgh Jakarta
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 5805 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 2. 805 2. (805) 1. 1000
2 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 4405 2. 805 6. (495) 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 3. 690 2. 805
3 United States Natalia Grossman 3370 6. 495 3. 690 6. 495 3. 690 7. 455 5. 545 -
4 Italy Laura Rogora 3345 4. 610 4. 610 2. 805 6. 495 17. (205) 13. 280 5. 545
5 United States Brooke Raboutou 3250 3. 690 2. 805 7. 455 4. 610 3. 690 - -
6 Japan Natsuki Tanii 3075 5. 545 8. 415 5. 545 5. 545 13. (280) 4. 610 8. 415
7 Slovenia Mia Krampl 2385 22. 125* 9. 380 8. 415 13. 280 6. 495 - 3. 690
8 Japan Ryu Nakagawa 2320 12. 300 7. 455 23. (120) 8. 415 15. 240 7. 455 7. 455
9 Slovenia Vita Lukan 2235 7. 455 17. (205) 16. 220 7. 455 10. 350 14. 260 6. 495
10 Austria Jessica Pilz 2149 8. 415 26. 84 4. 610 - 5. 545 6. 495 -

* = Joint place with another athlete

Season podium table

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RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1File:Flag of Slovenia.svg Slovenia (SLO)2002
2File:Flag of Japan.svg Japan (JPN)1315
3File:Flag of the United States (23px).png United States (USA)1135
4File:Flag of Indonesia.svg Indonesia (INA)1102
5File:Flag of Poland.svg Poland (POL)1012
6File:Flag of South Korea.svg South Korea (KOR)0101
7File:Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg China (CHN)0011
Totals (7 entries)66618

Medal table

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RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1File:Flag of the United States (23px).png United States (USA)1081028
2File:Flag of Japan.svg Japan (JPN)99826
3File:Flag of Slovenia.svg Slovenia (SLO)74112
4File:Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg China (CHN)53311
5File:Flag of Poland.svg Poland (POL)44412
6File:Flag of Indonesia.svg Indonesia (INA)42511
7File:Flag of Germany.svg Germany (GER)1236
8File:Flag of France.svg France (FRA)1113
9File:Flag of the Czech Republic.svg Czech Republic (CZE)1001
10File:Flag of South Korea.svg South Korea (KOR)0437
11File:Flag of the United Kingdom.svg Great Britain (GBR)0112
File:Flag of Italy.svg Italy (ITA)0112
File:Flag of Spain.svg Spain (ESP)0112
File:Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Switzerland (SWI)0112
15File:Flag of Austria.svg Austria (AUT)0101
Totals (15 entries)424242126

References

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