Angela Eiter

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Angela Eiter
File:Angela Eiter.jpg
Personal information
Nickname
Angy
NationalityAustrian
Born (1986-01-27) 27 January 1986 (age 40)
Arzl im Pitztal, Austria
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height154 cm (5 ft 1 in)
Weight46 kg (101 lb)
Websiteangelaeiter.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
First ascents
  • Madame Ching (9b, 2020)
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing File:Flag of Austria.svg Austria
World Games
Gold medal – first place 2005 Duisburg Lead
World Championships
Gold medal – first place 2005 Munich Lead
Gold medal – first place 2007 Avilés Lead
Gold medal – first place 2011 Arco Lead
Gold medal – first place 2012 Paris Lead
World Cup
Winner 2004 Lead
Winner 2005 Lead
Winner 2006 Lead
Winner 2006 Combined
European Championships
Gold medal – first place 2010 Imst/Innsbruck Lead
Rock Master
Winner 2003 Lead
Winner 2004 Lead
Winner 2005 Lead
Winner 2007 Lead
Winner 2009 Lead
Winner 2012 Lead
Updated on 8 May 2013

Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.

Climbing career

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Competition climbing

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Eiter started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport. Her parents accompanied her to the climbing gym in Imst. At fifteen, she climbed her first indoor 8a (5.13b). In 2002, having reached the age of sixteen, she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing.

In 2003, she won her first Cup race at Aprica. Since then she has won three World Cups in a row: in 2004,[1] in 2005, winning eight out of nine events[2] and in 2006, winning seven out of ten events.[3] She won four world championships in the competition lead climbing specialty: the 2005 edition in Munich,[4] the 2007 edition in Avilés,[5] the 2011 edition in Arco,[6] and the 2012 edition in Paris.[7]

For her achievements, she was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006.[8]

In September 2008, during the third round of the World Cup in Bern, she had a serious accident damaging her left shoulder, for which she underwent arthroscopic surgery.[9] She had to prematurely end the season and deal with nine months' rehabilitation. She started to compete the following July at the Climbing World Championship 2009 in Qinghai.

Rock climbing

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On September 6, 2014, Eiter climbed the 9a (5.14d) route Hades at Nassereith, Austria. She is the sixth woman to climb this grade or higher.[10][11] On October 22, 2017, she climbed La Planta de Shiva (Villanueva del Rosario, Spain), widely considered to be a 9b (5.15b) route, becoming the world's first-ever female to climb at grade.[12][13] In 2020, she did the first free ascent (FFA) of Madame Ching (which she named after Ching Shih) in Imst, Austria, and suggested the grade of 9b (5.15b) for it, which would make it the world's first-ever female FFA at that grade.[14][15]

Rankings

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See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup

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Discipline 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012
Lead 18 3 1 1 1 2 13 4 3 4 35
Bouldering - - - - 15 33 - - - - -
Combined - - - - 1 2 - - - - -

[16]

Climbing World Championships

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Discipline 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012
Lead 7 1 1 5 1 1
Bouldering - - 8 - - -

[17]

Climbing European Championships

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Discipline 2004 2006 2010
Lead 6 5 1

[17]

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

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Lead

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Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2002 0
2003 2 3 5
2004 4 1 5
2005 8 1 9
2006 7 1 1 9
2007 2 3 5
2008 1 1
2009 2 2
2010 2 2
2011 2 1 1 4
Total 25 13 4 42

[17]

Notable ascents

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Redpointed routes

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9b (5.15b):

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Hercules - Götterwandl (AUT) - October 2014 - First ascent
  • Ingravids Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - November 2010[22]
  • Claudio Café - Terra Promessa (ITA) - 2007[23]

8c (5.14b):

Onsighted routes

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8b (5.13d):

Boulder problems

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8B (V13):

See also

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References

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