Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou
 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | American | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | May 8, 1963 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Rock climbing coach | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 1.57 m (5 ft 2 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 43 kg (95 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Website | raboutoufamily | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | Winning 4 World Cups and 1 World Championship | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (born 8 May 1963), is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. In competition lead climbing, she is a 4-time World Cup champion (1992, 1993, 1994, 1995), and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. She is the third-ever woman in history to redpoint a 5.14a (8b+) graded sport climbing route. She has coached several competition climbers, including Natalia Grossman, Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes, Colin Duffy, Emily Harrington and her daughter, Brooke Raboutou.[1][2]
Climbing career
[edit | edit source]Competition climbing
[edit | edit source]Erbesfield won the world's first Climbing World Cup (Leeds in 1989) as a relative unknown. She quickly gained sponsorship and traveled around the world to compete on the new World Cup circuit. She went on to win the overall title for four consecutive World Cups from 1992 to 1995.[1][3]
Rock climbing
[edit | edit source]Beyond her illustrious competition career, Erbesfield-Raboutou has made notable contributions to outdoor sport climbing. In 1993, she became the third woman in history to redpoint a route graded 8b+ (5.14a) with her ascent of Silence Vertical in Troubat, France.[4] That same year, she achieved the first-ever female onsight of an 8a+ (5.13c) route, Overdose in Lourmarin, France.[5]
Demonstrating remarkable longevity in the sport, at age 49 in 2012, she redpointed Welcome to Tijuana (8c/5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain, becoming the oldest American woman to climb at that grade.[6] Her outdoor accomplishments underscore her enduring prowess and influence in the global climbing community.
Coaching
[edit | edit source]She founded the climbing gym ABC Kids Climbing in Boulder, Colorado which focuses on developing agility, balance, and coordination in young climbers. Many of its graduates are climbing 5.14, and performing well in national and international climbing competitions.[7] Two of the four American athletes who qualified for the 2020 Olympics in sport climbing, Brooke Raboutou and Colin Duffy, were both members of Team ABC, which also produced Margo Hayes, the first woman to climb a 5.15a (9a+) route, and Natalia Grossman, the 2021 bouldering world champion.[8]
In 2018 she was inducted into the Boulder Sports Hall of fame.[9]
Personal life
[edit | edit source]Erbesfield married French rock climber Didier Raboutou in 1993, and their two children, Brooke Raboutou and Shawn Raboutou, are themselves accomplished rock climbers.[3]
Rankings
[edit | edit source]Climbing World Championships
[edit | edit source]| Discipline[10] | 1991 | 1993 | 1995 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 3 | 2 | 1 |
Climbing World Cup
[edit | edit source]| Discipline[11] | 1989 | 1990 | 1991 | 1992 | 1993 | 1994 | 1995 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 3 | 4 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
[edit | edit source]Lead
[edit | edit source]| Season[10] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1989 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 1990 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 1991 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
| 1992 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 1993 | 3 | 3 | 6 | |
| 1994 | 4 | 4 | ||
| 1995 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| Total | 14 | 10 | 4 | 28 |
Notable Climbs
[edit | edit source]8c (5.14b):
8b+ (5.14a):
- Ixeia - Rodellar (ESP) - June 2012
- Tripa de Conejo - Rodellar (ESP) - June 2012
- God's Own Stone - Red River Gorge (USA) - April 1, 2012 - At age 48
- Bad Attitude - Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) - August 27, 2008 - At age 45[13]
- Attention vos Regards - Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) - 1993
- Silence Vertical - Troubat (FRA) - 1993 - World's third-ever female ascent of an 8b+ route.
8a+ (5.13c):
- Overdose - Lourmarin (FRA) - 1993 - World's first-ever female onsight of an 8a/+ route.
8a (5.13b):
- Ramponeau - Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) - 1992
Bibliography
[edit | edit source]- Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
See also
[edit | edit source]References
[edit | edit source]- ^ a b c Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ https://hardclimbs.info/climbers/robyn-erbesfield-raboutou/
- ^ https://climbing-history.org/climber/1157/robyn-erbesfield-raboutou
- ^ https://www.8a.nu/news/first-8c-by-robyn-erbesfield-raboutou-49
- ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ a b Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).