Gasherbrum IV
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| Gasherbrum IV | |
|---|---|
| File:Gasherbrum IV.JPG Gasherbrum IV's West Face, seen from Baltoro Glacier | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 7,925 m (26,001 ft)[1] Ranked 17th |
| Prominence | 718 m (2,356 ft)[2] |
| Coordinates | Lua error in Module:Coordinates at line 489: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).[2] |
| Geography | |
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| |
| Location | Gilgit-Baltistan region, Pakistan |
| Parent range | Baltoro Muztagh, Karakoram |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | August 6, 1958 by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri |
| Easiest route | Northwest Ridge |
| Gasherbrum IV | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional Chinese | 加舒爾布魯木IV峰 | ||
| |||
Gasherbrum IV,[a] originally surveyed as K3, is the 17th highest mountain on Earth and the 6th highest in Pakistan, as well as the highest independent mountain under eight thousand metres in Pakistan.
One of the peaks in the Gasherbrum massif, its immense West Face looms over the glacial junction of Concordia. The Name "Gasherbrum" is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to this face's tendency to reflect the rays of the setting sun, but in fact it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) and "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."[3]
Despite its lower height relative to the surrounding eight-thousanders, Gasherbrum IV is a venerated challenge among mountaineers.[4]
Notable ascents and attempts
[edit | edit source]| Year | Climbers | Summited? | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1958 | Italy Walter Bonatti Italy Carlo Mauri |
Yes | First ascent on an Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin via the Northeast Ridge and the North Summit. Traversing the pinnacled ridge to the main summit was considered the crux of the climb.[5] |
| 1980 | United States Craig McKibben United States Steve Swenson |
No | First attempt of ascent via the East Face was unsuccessful due to weather conditions.[6] |
| 1985 | Poland Wojciech Kurtyka Austria Robert Schauer |
No | First ascent of the 2,500 m high West Face. Bad weather, depletion of food and fuel, and extreme exhaustion forced them to stop at the north summit. The climb was called the "most remarkable alpine-style ascent of the 20th century" and cited in support of Kurtyka's 2016 Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award.[5][7] |
| 1986 | United States Greg Child Australia Tim Macartney-Snape United States Tom Hargis |
Yes | First ascent of the Northwest Ridge, involving an open bivouac on the north summit. This was the second ascent of Gasherbrum IV.[5][8] |
| 1993 | Japan Yasushi Yamanoi | No | Unsuccessful ascent attempt via the East Face.[6] |
| 1995 | Slovenia Miroslav "Slavko" Svetičič | No | Died while attempting a solo climb of the West Face.[9] |
| 1996 | South Korea Kim Chang-ho South Korea Lim Saeng-muk |
No | Attempted to summit via the East Face. Climb was abandoned after reaching about 7,400 m due to avalanche warning.[6] |
| 1997 | South Korea Bang Jung-ho South Korea Kim Tong-kwan South Korea Yoo Huk-jae |
Yes | First complete ascent via the West Face by a Korean team, via the central spur. Reached the summit after a sieged ascent quoted as 5.10 A3.[5] |
| 1999 | South Korea Kang Yeon-ryong South Korea Yun Chi-won |
Yes | Second ascent of the Northwest Ridge as part of a 13-member Korean team.[5] |
| 2008 | Spain Alberto Iñurrategi Spain Juan Vallejo Spain José Carlos Tamayo Spain Mikel Zabalza Spain Ferran Latorre |
No | Third ascent of the Northwest Ridge by a Spanish team. Did not reach the main summit, stopped at a minor peak a short distance from the true summit.[10][11] |
| 2012 |  French Expedition |
No | Attempting a summit of the "Shining Wall" on the West Face was abandoned mid-route due to an avalanche.[12] |
| 2016 | Slovenia Aleš Česen Slovenia Luka Lindič |
Yes (North Summit) | Reached the North Summit via the Northwest Ridge on July 26th. Intended to summit via the West Face, but weather conditions and heavy snow altered their route. This was the fourth successful summit of the Northwest Ridge.[13][14] |
| 2018 | Germany David Göttler Italy Hervé Barmasse |
No | Expedition to climb the Southwest Face was abandoned midway due to poor weather.[15] |
| 2018 | Spain Oriol Baro Spain Roger Cararach Spain Iker Madoz Spain Marc Toralles |
No | Spanish expedition abandoned their summit attempt due to bad weather. Planned to reach the summit via the still unclimbed South Pillar.[15] |
| 2018 | Italy Italian Expedition | No | Aimed to replicate the first ascent by Italians Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri on the sixtieth anniversary. Ended in tragedy as Maurizio Giordano was hit by falling ice and killed on the descent.[15] |
| 2023 | Russia Sergey Nilov Russia Dmitry Golovchenko |
No | Expedition via a completely unknown route up the southeast ridge ended in tragedy as Golovchenko was lost in a fall.[16] |
| 2024 | Russia Sergey Nilov Russia Mikhail Mironov Russia Sergei Mironov |
No | Attempt to recover Golovchenko's body ended tragically as a serac fell on the team. Expedition leader Sergei Nilov was reported missing and climbers Mikhail and Sergei Mironov were injured.[17] |
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See also
[edit | edit source]References
[edit | edit source]- ^ Urdu: گاشر برم ۔ ۴; Balti: རྒ་ཥཱ་བྲུམ་། - ༤, romanized: rgasha brum - 4, lit. 'Beautiful Mountain -4'; simplified Chinese: 加舒尔布鲁木IV峰; traditional Chinese: 加舒爾布魯木IV峰; pinyin: Jiāshūěrbùlǔmù IV Fēng
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- ^ "Piolets d’Or update!" Climber Magazine. [1]
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- ^ Carbonell, Rafael. "Oro en el Himalaya." El País, 8 August 2008. [2]
- ^ "mounteverest.net - Interview with Juan Vallejo, member of the Spanish team." [3]
- ^ Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ "Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview." PlanetMountain.com. [4]
- ^ Gripped. "Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic Make Fourth Ascent of Gasherbrum IV Route." 31 July 2016. [5]
- ^ a b c Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Configuration at line 2172: attempt to index field '?' (a nil value).
- ^ Bernardi, Federico. "A Climber We Lost: Dmitry Golovchenko." Climbing, 10 January 2024. [6]
- ^ Benavides, Angela. "Another Tragedy on Gasherbrum IV: Nilov Presumed Dead, Two Injured, Call for Help." Explorersweb, 18 August 2024. [7]
- ^ Jerzy Wala, The Eight-Thousand Metre Peaks of the Karakoram (orographical sketch map, revised), Kraków, Poland, 1994
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